Quebec City is a rapidly developing food haven. You can’t throw a rock in this city without hitting good food. Although I wouldn’t recommend throwing a rock at good food. I wondered these cobble stoned streets for over a week eating for you and I think I gained about 20 pounds. It was well worth it.
I was lucky enough to head out with local culinary legend and food columnist Allison Van Rassel. If you aren’t familiar with her, she has quite a bio, here is just a glimpse: Van Rassel writes for both Radio-Canada and CBC, exploring various topics like local artisans, poutine, and the craft of coffee roasting. Her blog, foodiequebec.com, has been recognized by publications like the New York Times and New York Magazine.
We headed out on a day of eating all over Quebec City and the surrounding areas of Allison’s favorites spots. From popular local snack bars serving up lobster rolls to upscale speakeasies with everything in between and a few places I threw in that I enjoyed on my adventures around the city. If you are in the area I also wrote a post on places to eat (and things to do) in the Portnuef area as well. You can check it out here.
Here is a list of all the places I dined at that I enjoyed and think you might enjoy dining at too. Let’s start with those located in Quebec City.
The Best of Quebec City
Va Bene
Va Bene is located in the Lower Town of Old Quebec (very close to the funicular) this is a very vibrant and modern feeling Italian place. Maybe not your first thought when coming to French Canada but the food is worth it. They pride themselves on their antipastos and I can attest to their fresh mozzarella, tomato and peppers being worth the visit. Not to mention their bread! The location is excellent too. Being in the oldest part of town with cobblestone streets and part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites makes for a beautiful dining experience.
La Continental
This is an institution in the old city. Having opened in 1956 it still serves French classics to this day and cooks table side dishes. We had a table side shrimp flambee. This is a more of a high-end restaurant. White table clothes, dark wood, wine service. This is where you go for a date night or if you want a fancier dinner.
Chez Maude
The first place Allison took us was this off the beaten track treasure. Located a bit out of the city, tucked into a quiet neighborhood, its part grocery store part store. The focus is all local ingredients and local producers. The owner, Maude Desroches, is an unassuming figure whose food is larger than life. Calling the establishment a “culinary laboratory”, Chez Maude is nothing short of it. Desroches made us a waffle with a local melted cheese sandwiched with sauteed apples. It may have been the best thing I ate the whole trip.
La Souche (Limoilou location)
This microbrewery has a rustic, mountain inspired feel of it. Not just known for its beer but its poutine is local favorite. And in a city filled with poutine options that is saying something. They even have special “Mystery” poutine night every Tuesday where they feature a unique, ever-changing creation. Their beers have been recognized worldwide, winning awards at the World Beer Awards and on Untapped. I had a killer White Stout, Queens Gambit, while I was there.
Vieux Carre
An elevated “speakeasy” experience. The look and feel of a speakeasy but it is not hidden. In fact, it is a very popular cocktail bar that you most likely need reservations for if you want to eat at. All the drinks are made solely with local spirits, reflecting the flavors of Canada. They also proudly focus on their environmental impact reducing waste and redistribute unused products back to the community.
What is Ile d’Or leans?
Located about 3 miles from Quebec City in the middle of the St. Lawarence River and known as the “Garden of Quebec” because of its strong agricultural traditions. The island is relatively small only 34 miles long and about 5 miles wide. It boasts a population of about 6,800.
Historically it was one of the first areas in the province to be colonized by the French in the mid 1600’s. Most likely the French were drawn to it for its agricultural resources.
Now it is a popular day trip from the city for many locals and tourists alike. It has a vibrant food scene with seasonal harvests and many farms offering “pick your own” activities. Many local food products are made here from traditional sugar shacks making maple toffee to unique cheeses.
Of course, there are wineries and cider houses to spend your day trying as well.
The Best of Ile d’Or leans
Cassis Monna & Filles
The Monna Family can trace back their liquoriste roots back to 1872 France. In the early 70’s they migrated to Quebec and started growing black currant. Bernard Monna passed on his business to his two daughters who now run it. What started as a farm growing berries has transformed into much, much more.
Their focus both in drinks and food products is, obviously, black currant. They make black currant sangria, jams, syrups, etc. The onsite restaurant La Monnaguette offers scenic views of the St Lawrence River, and the menu has black current featured in some way in almost every single menu item.
They have a beautiful terrace and outdoor space for spending nice days outside enjoying the scenery. Bring your family and your pets.
For me the star of the show was their very popular black currant-vanilla soft serve. They have 18 flavors all together, but I highly suggest trying this one. The vanilla is so creamy, and the black currant has the right blend of sweetness and tartness. It was my favorite dessert I ate while in Quebec!
Chez Mag, La Fine Cantine
Considered a sort of “upscale snack bar”, the building and outdoor seating is reminiscent of a New England eatery. With picnic tables littering the yard, you order from a window and enjoy your food outside.
What is it known for? In true New England fashion, LOBSTER ROLLS! The portion of the lobster is large, the homemade smoky garlic aioli is delicious, and the brioche rolls set it apart from others like it. Making the often long lines worth the wait.
Come for the lobster rolls but don’t forget about the poutine. The classic was perfect, but they also offer a lobster version with a homemade lobster bisque sauce. You can check out the menu here.
Vignoble Sainte-Petronille
No foodie day trip would be complete without a trip to a winery. Nestled inside the interior of the island is Vignoble, a family-owned winery started in 1988. In 2003, the Denault family gave up their lives as civil engineers and accountants and started a life as winemakers. They haven’t looked back since.
With sweeping views of the island from their terrace it is an excellent place to enjoy a glass of wine anytime of the year. Or take a stroll through the vineyards to enjoy them up close.
Definitely come hungry because they specialize in wood fired pizza that you don’t want to miss. The menu changes seasonally so you know you are getting the freshest ingredients and can constantly try new things. I love a wood fired pizza crust and you can really taste the difference in the locally sourced ingredients.
Now this is just a snipet of what the area has to offer. Both Quebec City and Ile d’or leans have many wonderful food and drink establishments. The food scene in both are bursting at the seems with places focused on locally sourced and reducing environmental impact.
I think the most impressive thing I experienced in Quebec is that so many restaurant owners and workers were so focused on the environmental impact and food waste. I would love to see this brought to where I live. We could all do with a more locally focused and waste reductive mindset.
Have you been to Quebec City or Ile d’or leans? Do you have a favorite restaurant?
