Portneuf is located in the province of Quebec along the Saint Lawrence River. Known for its beautiful, preserved landscapes and charming historic villages, it is a popular destination for outdoor activities. Cycling, Hiking, and water sports may be the most popular things to do but the little villages also offer plenty of art galleries, historic sites and local delicacies.
Eco Tourism in Portneuf
Portneuf cares about its outdoor spaces and local produce. The Regional County Municipality has many sustainability initiatives that are currently underway. Right now they are positioning themselves as a leader in Quebec’s energy transition through their Center for Expertise in Biomass Energy. This is a 2.5 million dollar project.
The region is also working on a project to produce 3rd-generation Renewable Natural Gas from landfill biogas. This innovative technology aims to use biogenic CO2 and green hydrogen to create cleaner fuel.
And that is just the tip if the iceberg of what the area is doing.
Sustainability and Environmentalism are high priorities for me these days. Especially now that America has an administration hell bent on ignoring climate change and anything to do with conservation. I often try to choose my destinations based on sustainable offerings when it is possible.
Endangered Atlantic Salmon
Warming temperatures in the Gulf of St Lawrence have affected the salmon populations. Warmer temps impact the salmon’s prey, foraging opportunities and overall survival.
I visited the Passe Migratoire Jacques-Cartier (Jacques-Cartier Fish Pass). This man made fish passage was created to help restore and conserve the Atlantic Salmon population in the river. The Donnacona Dam created an obstruction that greatly affected the spawning habitats further upstream.
The site also serves as an education center with information on the Atlantic Salmon, their life cycles and the conservation work being done there. There is a glass observatory for a unique viewing experience of the salmon as they navigate their way upstream. Unfortunately the water was very murky the day I went since it was storming all day. I saw no fish.
It also offers great views of the river and access to the grounds and the experience is free.
Promenade-Fleuve
This coast walkway project was designed to offer a unique way to discover the shoreline of the St. Lawerence River. This project was launched in 2024 and connects six villages along the coast with about 12.5 miles in trails.
Some of the trails follow the tidal flats which means you need to be aware of the tides when you are hiking because a high tide could trap you. It was raining on and off the day I walked it, so I spent a short time walking to a viewpoint to check out elevated views of the river. There are also some historic buildings on site we were able to check out that date back from the early 1900’s used to house soldiers.
The St. Lawerence Flats have sensitive environments in terms of their flora and fauna. In order to preserve the coastal ecosystems and the surrounding areas please check out their website here for the guidelines.
This is another free activity to experience the diverse activities in Portneuf.
The Vieux Presbytere
Located in the small town of Deschambault, now a historical landmark, it was built in 1815 to house the priest and his staff. Now it is a museum and exhibition space. Every summer it hosts a rotating contemporary art exhibit.
The grounds and surrounding buildings are all registered as historical archeological sites as well. It is a charming little village with lots of little shops to wander around as well.
Including Julie Vachon Chocolats, an artisanal chocolate shop with some to die for treats including home made ice cream that I can’t even describe. I had a raspberry soft serve that was so creamy and delicate. Berry flavors are not usually my top choice but I almost went for a second cone.
Parc Naturel Regional de Portneuf
All though this park is year-round many parts are not accessible all year. Including the chalet, I was staying in. For the few days I was in the area we stayed in a lakeside chalet with no electricity. It ran completely off propane and solar energy. There was no Wi-Fi either. It was a complete disconnect once I got to the cabin. It was really nice.
Surrounded by nature, the lake footsteps away, I was expecting a rustic cabin, but it was fully modern. With high ceilings and large spacious rooms. A giant covered outdoor deck where we shared out first meal. We communally prepared our dinner over the grill and chatted as the sun went down. It was a beautiful way to spend the evening. I did not miss my phone.
Although it was a bit of a drive to the other excursions listed (approx. 30 mins to get out of the park from our chalet), I did think it was worth it to stay in the chalet. Staying in the park is a unique and relaxing experience that you can’t really get in a hotel. On the flip side you could occupy yourself for a week without having to leave the park with all the diverse activities it provides.
Hiking, Kayaking, & More
There is over 70 km of trails to explore. From May to November, you can access the entire park. Once the snow comes there are restricted areas. If hiking isn’t your thing the park offers something for everyone.
My chalet had kayaks we could take out from our own dock since the lake was directly in our back yard. From the main office you can rent canoes, paddleboards or inflatable rafts.
You can take tours of the Devils Hole Cave which is the second longest accessible cave in Quebec at 980 meters. They have an easy route and an adventure route for those that want to challenge themselves.
For a full list of activities and amenities that the park provides please look at their website here.
Velopiste Jacques-Cartier/Portneuf
This a 68 km (42 mile) recreational bike path built on the former railway bed between Saint-Gabriel-de-Valcartier and Rivière-à-Pierre, Québec, offering a scenic ride through diverse landscapes like forests and lakes.
The path had a very slight incline, and the surface is paved in some places and a fine dust surface in others. Making it accessible for most types of bikes and any level of rider.
As you may know I have arthritis in my left hip and low mobility in that leg. The path itself was easy for me to use. I ended up pushing myself a bit and going for too long but other than that it was an easy trail for me to take.
There are even free camping spaces along the way and the bike path has no access fee for users. You can bring your own bikes or you can rent them from various points including Le Roquemont.
Where to Eat in Portneuf ?
I was here for a few days and did eat a lot of my meals in the cabin. We prepared a dinner and all of our breakfasts there. All the food was provided by Culture de Saveurs. Basically it is a collective of local producers of meats, cheeses, microbreweries, you name it, all in a picnic basket. We had one for dinner, snacks and breakfasts. If you stay at a cabin I highly recommend going shopping and doing just this.
La Dinette du Cap
Located around the corner from Julie Vachon Chocolat is this cozy little café that focuses on fair trade, 100% organic coffee. The day I visited it was rainy and chilly this was the perfect place to warm up.
The menu is written on a board and changes daily but also seasonally. They offer a few sandwiches, bagels, muffins, pizzettes and a soup of the day. I love a menu that changes because you know they are using fresh ingredients, and everything is being made daily.
This place is perfect for breakfast or lunch.
Le Roquemont
More than just a restaurant it has a hotel, swimming pool, bike rentals and a brewery. I rented my bike from here after my lunch.
It has an elevated pub menu with an extensive poutine list. Try the one with boar sausage and blueberries you won’t be disappointed! There is indoor and outdoor seating but the best part about the patio is there is a shaded ankle-deep pool with Adirondack chairs placed around it so you can relax with your feet in the water. Perfect way to relax after a 20 mile bike ride.
Myranel
They call this Michelin starred restaurant a love story and it truly is. For those who love food this is a delicate journey through local flavor. Each dish thoughtfully planned out and beautifully placed. The menu changes seasonally and local seasonal products are what is used for each dish. It is a tasting menu and there is two versions to choose from either with meat or vegetarian.
It is also a certified Biosphere restaurant which means it is committed to minimizing its environmental impact and promoting responsible consumption. There are only about 170 restaurants and food/beverage companies worldwide that hold this certification.
The Portneuf area is a perfect weekend trip from Quebec City or a great place to explore all on its own. If you want to connect with nature and care about your carbon foot print this region really tries to get it right when it comes to sustainability. They are working hard to be conscious of what they are putting out into the world. We could learn a lot from Portneuf.
