The most popular way to visit Alaska is on a cruise. Porting in many towns for the day and exploring the area before hoping back on the boat and sailing to the next destination.
Personally, a cruise isn’t for me, not because I don’t love boats but because of the environmental impacts cruises have. Most rely on single use plastics and the amount of waste created is more than I would like to think about. Travel in general can have significant impacts on the world around us but participating in something I know isn’t good is something I would rather avoid.
What I didn’t realize is how quiet it becomes after the last cruise ship leaves. I arrived in Anchorage in late September to mild temperatures and almost zero tourists. Alaskan travel is based around summer (for cruises) and winter for well, winter activities. Coming in the shoulder season means it’s a bit cheaper and way less crowded.
If you are staying in the downtown area of Anchorage, it is incredibly walkable. Downtown isn’t too big so it won’t take more than 20 mins from wherever you are to the farthest point. However, I stayed on the edge of the downtown area and when it got late I would uber. I wouldn’t say it is unsafe but unfortunately, they have a lot of unhoused people living in the area. Tent cities are common around the outskirts of town.
When walking around there are a lot of people who seem like they might be suffering from mental health issues. Living in New York and being close to Manhattan I see this often. I wasn’t worried but it is something to keep in mind especially if you are coming from somewhere that you are unaccustomed to interacting with people like this. No one ever bothered me but there were sometimes me and just one other person and that person was screaming to themselves.
Salmon Berry Travel and Tours hosted part of my trip. A local women owned and ran tour company that focuses on authentic and bespoke trips. These are not big box tours. They offer day trips to multi day tours and will customize your experience for you.
I knew from the second the trip started that I was perfectly matched. They give everyone a reusable glass bottle at the start of a trip. Their sustainability efforts are really impressive in an industry that still struggles to focus on this. They care about the land, people and cultures that they work with and it shows in every aspect of what they do.
South of Anchorage Trip with Salmon Berry
Heading out of Anchorage, you might take the Turnagain Arm. A scenic highway that brings you close to the waters edge but leads to good *potential* Beluga viewing. Since it was the end of the summer season I didn’t catch a glimpse but its quite common to see them along this drive.
Turnagain Arm is called that because Captain James Cook, while searching for the Northwest Passage in 1778, was forced to “turn again” after realizing the arm was not a passage to the Pacific but a river. The road is given to huge shifts in the tide and can be closed due to weather.
Lucky for us that wasn’t the case and it took us straight to the Alaskan Wildlife Conservation Center. A non-profit dedicated to conservation, research, education and animal care. You can drive around the 200 acres of land or you can walk it. Be mindful that it can be quite muddy. Walking is a much better way to get up close to the animals. What I love is the conservation center is all outside, the animals get to live and play in their natural habitat.
You are also more likely to see a grizzly or any other animal that might be on your radar than if you went to a national park for animal viewing.
Since you are in the area may I recommend stopping for lunch at Girdwood Brewery. On any given day they will have a few food trucks parked outside. With a variety of choices. You can bring it inside and get yourself a beer. This is a great spot to save money and take a breather.
Seward
Kenai Fjords National Park Cruise was stunning. You do go out into open water so it can be a bit rough at times. However you are surrounded by glaciers and stunning cliffs. I was a bit late in the season for whales but in the summer its very likely to see them up close. The park is dominated by the Harding Icefield, one of the largest icefields in the United States, which feeds numerous tidewater glaciers into the fjords. Creating a unique mix of mountains, oceans and ice.
I did a 6 hour tour which is more than enough time out on the water. My tour was with Major Marine Tours and they offer 4, 6 and 7.5 hour tours.
Full day Lake Clark Experience
This one was tough for me but I pushed myself. Lake Clark is only accessible by boat or seaplane. If you want to do a day trip you will have to take a sea plane. Have I told you that I get flight anxiety? That’s right. I fly at least a dozen times a year and I still get anxious on flights. Tiny planes are worse of course. But I wanted to see the bears.
Flying into the Lake Clark is a stunning experience. You fly thru mountains with little lakes and land in water that is indescribably blue. Since it was September the trees were shades of brown, red and gold. Once there you board little boats and go bear viewing. THERE WERE SO MANY BEARS. Grizzlies everywhere. Mothers with babies, bears swimming, bears passed out on the lake after leaving a wake of fish bodies behind them. It was very exciting. There is a small camp ground with bathroom facilities and a place to have lunch. I was served incredible Salmon.
We were supposed to go out for a second round of viewing when bad weather hit and we had to immediately leave. This was not good for my anxiety. To make a long story short the flight was bumpy but it wasn’t has bad as anticipated. Our pilot was incredible and had been flying for 40 years. Rust’s Flying Service took great care with our safety. And I was glad I pushed myself out of my comfort zone. Lake Clark is a once in a lifetime experience.
Lazy Otter Charters
One more boat tour. If you cant tell I enjoy being on the water. Even if the winter. A unique fact about getting to Whittier Bay you have to go thru the Anton Anderson Memorial tunnel. This is dual-use highway and railroad tunnel in Alaska. It is the longest combined highway-railroad tunnel in North America. The tunnel provides the only land access to the town of Whittier, Alaska. The traffic changes in either direction every half hour.
Sadly, this area is known for the big Exxon oil spill that happened back in 1989. The captain told me the waters still have not recovered from the spill and the oil company took little to no responsibility for what it did. Shocking. It spilled 11 million gallons of crude oil into the Prince William Sound causing harm to 1,300 miles of coastline, killing hundreds of thousands of wildlife and broadly effecting the communities that live there. The spill irreparably damaged the food chain and commercial fishing industry. This is considered the worst oil spill in history.
Alas the area does remain beautiful if damaged. It is the gateway to glaciers, wildlife and beautiful scenery. I was able to see many glaciers up close like the Blackstone glacier and the Beluga Glacier. We also saw lots of otters swimming around in the water. It was a rainy, overcast day but added to the beauty around.
Book tours with Lazy Otter Charter here.
Where to Eat in Anchorage?
Honestly there are so many great choices in Anchorage. I did a lot of research before and although Anchorage isn’t that big, it packs quite a punch with their food scene. It has something for every palate. I was pleasantly surprised by the food scene here and did not have a meal I couldn’t rave about!
It is worth noting that Alaska is expensive. This is harsh living with most goods being imported into the area. Making the cost of living high and the cost of groceries VERY high. If you think tariffs are killing you, I assure you, it’s worse for Alaskans. This means, even though the fish and meat are locally sourced food in restaurants still remains high because other ingredients have to be brought in.
Alaskan Sights & Bites
This is a great introductory food experience that brings you to all local restaurants. If you are looking to get an idea of the cuisine, restaurants and general downtown area this is perfect for getting your footing.
The company is run by two local brothers, Dan and Chris Morris, in 2021. As travelers themselves they wanted to share their city with fellow wanderers.
I did the Anchorage Walking tour but they have expanded to different neighborhoods and acquired vans for some out of town exploration as well. They have different tours for everyone’s needs.
Check out their tours here.
These are all the food establishments that I went to while I was in Anchorage!
This was the best bowl of ramen I have ever had. I am not saying that lightly. The cocktails are great and the vibe is immaculate.
The only neon sign left in the city and one of its oldest establishments. This is your classic steak house. The halibut was sublime. The menu is pricey but you get what you pay for in quality
Everywhere I went I got Halibut. I am going to keep saying it was perfect because, well, it always was. Alaska is known for it. It is always fresh and they know how to prepare it. Glacier is an upscale brewhouse. Diverse beer menu to go along with the food.
Perfect for breakfast or an afternoon snack. Lots of choices, everything fresh made on the premises. Also a garden shop!
For this one you will need a car or uber. It is out of the down town area but it is a local staple. When I heard I had to try an Alaskan pizza place I was intrigued. It was on every single “must eat” list I saw. It did not disappoint. The pizza was everything everyone said and I took my leftovers home and enjoyed them drunkenly throughout the week.
Humpy’s Great Alaskan Alehouse
Think local dive bar with excellent seafood.
On my food tour I went here and had the reindeer sausage crepe. I was really surprised by how much I liked it. They have plenty of options including loads of dessert crepes.
Reindeer sausage cart
Hear me out. This cart usually sits in the front of the visitor center. It is very popular among locals. If something is popular with locals I want to try it.
An homage to the former name of Anchorage this gastro pub has an excellent tap list, as to be expected, but the food is also a standout. Great for a casual dinner or a fun bar experience.
I would like to thank Salmon Berry Tours, Lazy Otter Charters and Alaskan Sights and Bites for hosting me while I was in Anchorage. As usual all thoughts and opinions are my own.
